by Terry Hope Romero
reviewed by JESSI HAFER
I’ve just scratched the surface of the vegan Latin cookbook Viva Vegan!, by Terry Hope Romero (co-author of must-have vegan cookbooks Veganomicon, Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World, and Vegan Cookies Invade Your Cookie Jar). I meant to try more recipes by now, but part of why I haven’t is because after trying my first pick – vegan Cuban sandwiches – I ended up making them over and over again. The vegan cheese (hurray for Daiya!) and vegan “ham” slices I would normally see as cop-outs were actually a subtle and significant counterbalance to homemade, marinated seitan (wheat gluten often used as a “meat substitute”). Adding pickles and grilling on sandwich rolls made for a sandwich unlike any I’d had before, and even the non-vegetarians who tried it were impressed.
Happily, though, the cookbook does not over-emphasize vegan cheese or processed meat substitutes. Looking through the other 200+ recipes in the Viva Vegan!, I found a cookbook that will walk people step-by-step through what may be new concepts, if those people are new to either vegan or Latin food. I also found a cookbook that takes the cuisine found throughout Latin America and presents both vegan interpretations of traditional dishes as well as innovative, fusion-ized recreations based on traditional flavors.
Romero also takes basics like rice and beans and reinvigorates them for those who aren’t as familiar with how the personalities of these staples vary from region to region. I made “Red Beans with Dominican-style Sazon” for an (omnivore) family gathering and received unusually enthusiastic compliments, well-deserved (if I do say so myself) since the peppers, onions, and herbs incorporated in these beans lend a surprising bit of spunk without allowing the beans to overpower a main dish. “Venezuelan-Style Black Beans,” “Columbian-Style Red Beans,” and “Costa Rican Refried Rice and Beans” are on my “to make soon” list.
All that said, great sandwiches and amazing beans could not trump the ecstatic joy of making my own churros with chocolate dipping sauce. While these took a little bit of work (and moral support from friends anxious to eat these), it wasn’t too terribly difficult, and the results were amazing.
What to make next?! Perhaps “Amaranth Polenta with Roasted Chiles,” “Potato-Chickpea Enchiladas with Green Tomatillo Sauce,” or “Crepes with Un-Dulce de Leche and Sweet Plantains.” Or if I’m feeling even more ambitious, perhaps I’ll try my hand at some empanadas, like “Sweet and Spicy Seitan-Potato Empanadas.” I’m also looking forward to trying some of the afore-mentioned beans with some “Pan-Grilled Vegetables in Chile-Lime Beer” to use up the last of the summer squash from my garden this year. I also look forward to making “Crunchy Fried Yuca” and “Mofongo” to fondly reminisce about my recent trip to Puerto Rico.
Viva Vegan! gives you opportunities to venture into impressive and involved dishes while also presenting options for more simple dishes, and all while proving that great Latin American cuisine can be achieved without meat or dairy.
Purchase Viva Vegan! @ http://www.amazon.com/Viva-Vegan-Authentic-Fabulous-Recipes/dp/0738212733
